Fabricating An Engine Stand
Have constructed the engine stand on wheels to allow wheeling the engine up to the engine firewall and below the rear end of the root tube for installation. The completed stand clears the side longerons by about 1/2" on each side with the underside of the stand top clearing the horizontal engine firewall by about 1 inch. Made of 3/4" construction grade plywood, 2"x4"'s, screws, two fixed wheels and two swivel wheels.
NOTE: This stand was built using Jim Lartin-Drake's engine stand design as a guideline.
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Have cut 4 ea. 2"x4"x18" for the top & bottom plates of the side leg assembly. For the plywood top and leg braces, I cut the 3/4" plywood into the following pieces: 1 ea. 18"x32", 4 ea. 8"x18" and 4 ea. triangle braces at 8" length per side. Wood screws at 1-1/2" and 3" were used for this construction. |
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The 2"x4" upright legs were cut at 33" inches. The top & bottom 2"x4" plates were attached to the upright legs with 3" wood screws. The fixed (rear) and swivel (front) casters were attached to the bottom plates with 1-1/2" wood screws as well as the 4 ea. side braces. |
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The 18"x32"x3/4" plywood stand table top was attached to the top leg plates with 1-1/2" wood screws. The triangle front & rear plywood braces were screwed into the leg surface and edge of the plywood table top, also with 1-1/2" wood screws. You will also have to cut a "V" notch in both "rear" triangle braces in order to properly clear the edges of the horizontal firewall below the stand. |
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Once your stand has been finished, you will be able to place the stand over the tail section, place your engine on the stand and just roll it up and in place for mounting the engine. As the root tube will be at an angle to the engine, I placed the handle of my 2" plastic mallet under the rear of the engine to raise it. Works great for a one man install. :-) |
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