There are many types and colors of strobe lights. Some are installed as a single light on the top of the rudder vertical stabilizer, under the main fuselage center, on top of the wings at center point and wing tip strobes. In the following installation, we will show the best way to install wing tip strobe lights. The cables for the strobe lights should be run prior to covering any section. This installation is easiest if done very early in the build.

In most cases, the strobe driver box will be located on the front portion of the frame, either in the nose cone area or under the instrument panel. The driver box should be attached to a set of braces you will need to install somewhere in the nose using s/s rivets.

In the photo to the left, both aluminum "L" & "C" brackets were installed. In the photo to the right, 1/2 inch aircraft aluminum tubing was used.

When wiring the strobe driver box to ground and +12v power, you will need to place an On/Off switch in-line with the red, +12v power wire as you will not want the strobe lights to come on every time you turn on your master power switch.

You will first need to connect the metal pins to the wires using a connector crimp tool, usually available at Radio Shack. Then insert the pins into the plug as numbered below and push in until you hear or feel them lock into the plug. As can be seen in the image to the right, placement of the correct color wires into the plug is very straight forward as the plug is numbered with the correct color wire running to the correct number.

To improve the connection's integrity, place shrink tubing over the wires before inserting the pins into the plug, then shrink with a hot air gun after the plug wires are attached. This also makes the connection look more professional.

After you have the wiring connected to the driver box, remove any excess slack from the cables by pulling the cables up through the down tube. Measure about 6 to 10 inches of cable from the down tube at the root tube and cut both cables. You do not want to run a single, solid cable from the driver box to the wing tips. The reason for this is to enable you to remove the wings at a later date. Use "Snap-Lock Connectors" for this connection. The reason for this is they are less likely to ever come apart due to vibration. The builder bought the connectors at Ace Hardware.

The builder decided to add a 3/8 inch plastic tubing which the strobe cable would be placed into when run down the inside of the forward or leading wing spar. Thus making the strobe cable less vulnerable to cuts or fraying from rubbing on the inside end edge of the spar. The plastic tubing should extend at least 4 inches beyond each end of the spar tube. It is also advisable to deburr the inside leading spar ends to remove any sharp edges.

If you are using Hoerner fiberglass wing tips, you need to locate the spot you plan to install the wing tip strobes, as close to center as possible. Once done, drill a 3/8 inch hole to allow the strobe cable to be brought through. Once you have your cable through the hole, tie a knot in the cable so you don't loose it back into the wing later. This is especially important when you cover your wing as it will be very, very difficult to find and get the cable back out through the hole at this point.

If you are installing the kit version of the aluminum tube wing bow tips, you will need to drill the 3/8 inch hole as described above, then run the strobe cable into the bow tube and out the hole you just drilled in the tube.

You will want to wait until the last installation, after painting is completed and your Challenger is fully assembled to permanently attach the Streamline Strobe Heads. The strobe butt plate has a slightly smaller radius than the Hoerner tip edge where you will be mounting them. File down the outer curl of the inside of the butt plates using a half round coarse file. A Dremel with a sanding drum will work better. You only want to remove a little of the sharp radius, so remove a little, then test fit to the wing tip until you have the radius you need.

When mounting the strobe butt plate, you may wish to place a light film of silicon inside the radius bend of the butt plate for a firmer bond than just relying on the two screws to permanently mount the Streamline Strobe Heads

Wiring the Streamline Strobe Heads to the strobe cable wires should be done in a staggered fashion as shown above in the drawing. WARNING: Shrink tubing "IS NEEDED" to protect the wires from shorting out to each other or to the frame. So, be sure to place the shrink tubing over the wires before permanently connecting the wires together. In this case, you will want to first twist the wires together, "Red to Red" and so on, then "SOLDER" the wire twist into one wire. Now, pull the shrink tubing over the soldered/tristed wires and shrink the tubing over the soldered connection with a hot air gun. The hot air gun can be bought at most hardware stores.

The strobe bulb base is made of silicon with retaining sleeves for two screws to screw the strobe bulb base and butt plate to the wing tip. You will need to feed the wiring back into the wing when mounting the bulb base. After installed, slip the lucite dome cover over the bulb and onto the bulb base. There are two small screws that firmly retain the lucite dome to the bulb base. Once this is done to both wings, you are finished. Wire in the strobe driver box to your +12v power source.