Instrument Panel Design & Layout
The instrument panel design shown on this page is only one out of dozens of possibilities. Not only are there many different designs, but panel materials, individual instruments, analog instruments and digital instruments. The possibilities are endless, so don't take this design as the only choice you will have.
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The first thing to do is make a cardboard template of your proposed instrument panel, then check the fit in your Challenger. This will facilitate making any needed alterations to the template prior to cutting out the design from your panel material and save from making costly mistakes in expensive material. |
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Note: Instrument panels are normally laid out with the flight instruments on the top row of the panel with the engine instruments on the bottom row. This helps if you transition from one plane to another. Example of top row instruments would be; ASI, ALT, VSI, in that order. However, our builder decided to reverse this order out of personal preference.
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Trace the design onto the panel material using a fine line felt marking pen. After doing so, you will need to cut out your panel with something like a jigsaw or band saw. Use a file to smooth out any jagged or sharp edges. |
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You should now have something like this. The blank instrument panel should match the perimeter of your template. |
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Layout Of Instruments
Now it is time to lay out how the instruments will be placed into the panel. First, sketch your intended layout out on the cardboard template before marking the panel. When satisfied with the layout, carefully measure and mark the panel with a fine line felt marking pen.
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Using a drill press or a hand drill, drill a pilot hole at the center of each instrument to be placed in the panel. If the instrument is round, you can then use a metal hole cutter. The style used here is sometimes called a "fly cutter." Round "Knock-out" punches and dies will produce very clean and accurate holes but are expensive, ask around your airport and you might be lucky enough to find one. |
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A jigsaw or Dremel will work nicely if the instrument is square or rectangular as well as in areas like the Altimeter shown in the photo, where you need to remove a notch for the setting knob. This would be a good time to trial fit the panel for any alterations that may be needed. |
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In most cases, installing an instrument brace or support will not be necessary. However, if you install a somewhat long instrument, like a transponder, you may wish to install under instrument bracing. |
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In this case, a transponder has been added to the instrument panel. The transponder is about 6 inches long and with its weight alone, pulls down and slightly distorts the instrument panel. When checking it, the transponder will vibrate a great deal. In a case like this, it would be best to place a brace under the transponder to avoid future damage or breaking free from the panel. |
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It also recommended to place a piece of rubber padding between the transponder or other such instrument and the aluminum tube brace to help absorb any shock. In addition to this, tie wrapping the instrument to the tube brace is also recommended. |
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The forward aluminum angles attached to tubes FB-1 were placed here to attach the panel sides. (Left) The two top aluminum angles had to be installed for panel attachment as the panel is flat and stands off from tube FWF by about 3 inches. (Right) |
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NOTE: The bracing at an angle, just above the rudder peddles will be described on the electrical wiring web page as this brace was placed there to attach the hot box and Key West regulator. |
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Here you can see why the builder installed the top instrument panel angles and how the panel attaches to them. Each panel brace consist of a 4" length X 3/4" length of angle 2024T3 aluminum riveted with a short SS rivet to a 3/4" length 3/4" angle aluminum. A single long stainless steel rivet is used to secure the brace to the cross tube FWF. |
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If the panel was attached directly to the FWF tube at the top, then the bottom of the panel would require some type of standoff's to attach the panel to the FB-1 tubes. In the case of an angled or bent panel, like Mike Harrison's (Below), the panel would be attached to the FWF & FB-1 tubes without any standoff's being required. |
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Before installing the instrument panel permanently, do a last trial fit before applying the final finish to the panel. If there are any last minute adjustments to be made, this will be the time to do it. With the final fit confirmed, you will want to apply the finish coating to the panel's surface. |
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Before you can install your instrument panel permanently, you will need to wire all of the gauges to the rear and attach any tubing, like the pitot tube to your airspeed gauge or EIS unit. One way to get around this problem is to permanently mount your fiberglass nose cone "AFTER" you have installed the instrument panel and wiring. In doing so, this will give you all the room you will need for wiring the gauges. If you are using the factory chisel nose, you will not have to worry as the nose will not be covered until you are ready to cover the fuselage. Another option is to place your instrument panel on hinges with a couple of screw key locks so you can tilt your panel out to work on it or to use "ALL" screw key locks so the panel can be easily removed at a later date. |
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One very good alternative to making your own instrument panel is to buy one from a Challenger or other dealer. The panels shown here are just a couple types offered by Mike Harrison. |
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Here is a very nice and somewhat large instrument panel, submitted by: Jacques Lajeunesse in Québec City, Canada. |
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Here is a very nice and slightly larger instrument panel on a hinge arrangement to allow easy access to the back of the panel, submitted by: Ralph Shultz. |
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