Temporary Installation Of Landing Gear


Although we will touch upon what main landing gear will come with your Challenger kit, our builder will be installing Mike Harrison's custom fiberglass main landing gear. It will be this fiberglass gear we will be talking about on this build page.


First Look
Factory Landing Gear
Vs.
Custom Landing Gear

The photo to the right shows both the factory supplied main landing gear which comes standard with the Challenger I & II kits as well as custom fiberglass main gear. There are several differences between the stock gear and the custom gear.

The stock gear from the factory sports smaller tires, two section rims, aluminum main gear legs, drum brakes and similar axles to that of the custom gear, but not the same, plus mounting hardware & installation instructions.

The fiberglass custom main landing gear comes with larger & higher quality tires, aluminum alloy rims, fiberglass main gear legs, hydraulic disc brakes and upgraded axles, plus mounting hardware & excellent installation instructions.

         
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Photo Courtesy of:
Matt Adams



Click to Enlarge
Photo Courtesy of:
Matt Adams
         

Would like to state up front that the factory main landing gear is still a good choice where many Challenger owners are using this gear today. However, if you would like a slightly more comfortable ride combined with a true quality main landing gear, then this is for you. If you decide to order Mike's fiberglass gear, be sure to tell your dealer at the time of kit order, "not" to order the stock gear with your kit, but instead, to order the fiberglass main gear package. There is very little cost difference between the two types of landing gear, but this will remain your decision. Mike's complete wheels, brakes and fiberglass gear are also available from Quad City now.

The largest difference between the two is the added suspension you get with fiberglass gear, superior braking due to hydraulic disc brakes, alloy wheels with tubeless tires and an added bonus of saving weight. A complete and very easy to follow set of instructions come with Mike's fiberglass gear.




Temporary Installation Of Main Landing Gear

First of all, "Why temporarily install the landing gear? The reason for temporarily installing the landing gear is to give you ease of mobility with the fuselage by being able to move it around easily while working on the mechanical and electrical system of the fuselage. Remember, you still have to cover your plane with dacron material and will need to remove the landing gear prior to the covering process. We will be presenting the "PERMANENT" landing gear installation in another web page following the covering section to finalize the remaining permanent installation not covered here.

To start, you will need to place the fuselage up onto something like sawhorses to get the fuselage higher than the landing gear you are installing. Next, place both fiberglass legs into the landing gear weldments on the fuselage. Measure from the weldment base to the center mid-cuff hole on the leg. This measurement should be exactly 12 inches from the weldment to the center cuff hole. If the measurement is larger, remove the gear leg and check inside the weldment for any debris or welding slag. If any is found, you will need to remove this obstruction before continuing.

Once you have a good fit of the gear legs on both sides of the fuselage, connect the two cross cables using two #2 screwdrivers to suspend the cables. This is temporary until you have a proper alignment of the legs for drilling. Check to make sure both cables are equally loose as they will sag a little with no weight on the gear legs. This is easily done by just aligning the screwdriver in the mid-cuff to be perfectly parallel with the longerons. Once you have an equal distance, should have the same amount of sag in each cable, your gear legs are now aligned and ready to drill a 1/4" hole through the weldment leg holder and the fiberglass leg. Be sure not to move the gear leg during this process. (See photo with drill hanging below)

Now that you have one gear leg drilled, place the 1/4" mounting bolt with a single washer through the hole. Place another washer on the other side. As this will be a temporary connection, put the nyloc nut aside and use a standard 1/4"x20 hardware nut on the bolt, but only snug tighten it. (See photo with drill hanging below) You will use the nyloc nut when you permanently mount the gear legs later.

The next step is to align the axle for a 1 degree "toe in" before drilling for the securing bolt.

Before we start, here is a second way to align the main gear for the 1 degree toe-in. Jim Lartin-Drake shows you how.



Click to Enlarge
Photo Courtesy of:
Mike Harrison
         

The easiest way to accomplish this is to use a laser in the following manner. Lasers are not all that expensive any more and easily obtainable at most stores today. Could be anything from an industrial laser to a laser pen. Here is what you need to do. You can either clamp your laser to the bottom of the axle, like in the photo to the left, or make a holding jig for your laser which will either clamp to or slip onto the axle. Slip the axle weldment onto the fiberglass leg until the leg bottoms out on the axle. Turn your laser light on and move the axle weldment until your laser beam "just touches" the rear of the leg on the other side of the fuselage.

         
Click to Enlarge
Photo Courtesy of:
Mike Harrison

Clamp the axle weldment to the fiberglass leg as you are now ready to drill the 1/4" securing bolt hole through the axle weldment and fiberglass leg. Be careful not to move the axle weldment during the drilling process.

As you will be removing the landing gear prior to covering the fuselage, the "only" bolts needing to be temporary are the ones on the fuselage weldment and mid-cuff drag cables. The bolt through the axle weldment can be permanent, so go ahead and use the nyloc nut for this assembly.

         
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Click to Enlarge
         

It's now time to mount your hydraulic brake assembly. There are two set screws in the bottom of the assembly at the 5 & 7 o'clock positions which you need to back out for the assembly to clear the axle. Once you have bottomed the assembly on the rear of the axle, remove the set screws, place "BLUE" loctite on them, replace and tighten just snug against the axle.

Find the thin washer in the bag with the oil can and fluid. Place this washer on the axle, then the wheel with tire. Make sure the three rotor drive pins on the back of the wheel are aligned with the three holes on the brake disk. Once the wheel has been mounted and the pins fully inserted into the brake disk, place the thicker washer and large locknut onto the axle. Do not over tighten the nut. Spin the wheel as you bring the locknut down snug. When the wheel starts to drag, loosen the locknut just a little until the wheel spins freely.

         
Click to Enlarge
Photo Courtesy of:
Mike Harrison

The drag cables between the landing gear will also be temporarily installed as these too will have to be removed before covering. Again, place the 1/4" mounting bolt with a single washer through the drag cable eye and mid-cuff hole. Place the other drag cable on the other side with another washer. As this will be a temporary connection, put the nyloc nut aside and use a standard 1/4"x20 hardware nut on the bolt, but only snug tighten it. You will use the nyloc nut when you permanently mount the gear legs later upon final installation.


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Well, that's all there is to mounting the fiberglass main landing gear. You will now wish to repeate this process for the other gear leg on the other side of the fuselage.

         
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NOTE: Do not worry about filling the brake master cylinder or brake lines with the brake fluid. This will be covered "in the final brake line installation later in the build during the permanent landing gear installation".

Just a heads up: When you get to this point, you will need a pair of "Snap Ring Pliers" to remove the master cylinder for filling and bleading.

Installing The Hydraulic Brake Lines

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Locate the bag with the brake handle with master cylinder and mounting bracket. Loosen the allen screws in the mounting bracket and slide the assembly over and down the flight control stick. Position the brake assembly far enough down on the joystick so that the top of the actuator lever is level with the top of the joystick. Before tightening the allen screws, rotate the master brake cylinder closer to the side of the control stick, then tighten the allen screws. Connect the brake line to the master cylinder brass fitting. "DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN FITTING"!

Secure the brake line to the control stick with a tie wrap, then transition the brake line by using a tie wrap to secure the line to the control stick interconnecting tube. These tie wraps will be removed later during the final brake installation, then replaced once you have bled the brakes.


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Follow the interconnecting tube with the brake line and transition the line from the interconnecting tube to the rear most elevator torque tube.

Place the last tire wrap onto the elevator torque tube just even with the main gear weldment cross tube. Cut and attach the brake line to the center leg of the brass "T" fitting as shown in the photo to the right. Be sure to leave enough line to curve back as in the photo.

         
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Cut the remaining brake line into equal halves. Attach each half to the "T" fitting as shown. Tie wrap the lines to the weldment cross tube from the fitting to just before the weldments. As the gear are only temporary at this point, just coil the lines under the fuselage for now. You will be permanently connecting them to the disc brakes "after covering" the fuselage and reinstalling the main gear permanently.



Temporary Installation Of The Nose Gear

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With either the nose cone in place or removed, temporarily install the nose gear fork and wheel. If the nose cone is in place, you will have to remove the universal clamps on the nose gear assembly in order to raise the assembly and insert the fork's upright shaft into the assembly housing.

         
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Nose Gear Brace Modification

This is perhaps one of the more popular modifications made to the nose gear. Using a 1/4" thick aluminum plate, cut out as in the photo. After cutting plate, sides are 1.25" and bottom is 4.5". Can either use a 1/4" or 3/16" aluminum plate.

    HARDWARE USED:
  • Aluminum Plate: 12" Long X 4" Wide X 1/4" Thick.
  • 4 ea. Universal Hose Clamps: 1/2"X1-1/4".
  • U-Bolt = 1-1/4"
         
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Installing The Tail Wheel

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The painting of the tail longerons, as well as the tail wheel brackets, is a nice touch.

         
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Simple in its design with the tail wheel rivet holes already drilled for you, all you have to do is just clamp the tail wheel brackets to the tail longerons, then drill the 1/8" rivet holes in the longerons using the pre-drilled brackets as the template for drilling. Cleco in a couple places and finish drilling the remaining rivet holes. Now you are ready to rivet the tail wheel permanently in place with long 1/8" stainless steel rivets.

That's it, you are done for this section.

         
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