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Prior to taping the gusset edges, it is recommended to first use a plastic mallet to tap down the edges as close to the aluminum tubing as possible. This should be done on "ALL" gussets and sheet aluminum edges throughout the plane. This will help in the long term effect of reducing the gusset edges from cutting or wearing through the covering or skin of the plane after the plane is flying.

The best tape to use for taping off the gusset edge and rivets is a Dacron First Aid tape available at WalMart. The covering is also made of Dacron, so if it ever gets wet, it will not mildew or decompose. For all the edge and rivet taping throughout the plane, you will need to buy about 15 to 20 rolls.

Before applying any tape or glue, be sure to completely clean all aluminum surfaces to be taped or glued with MEK.

See MEK Warning Information before using.

Be sure to apply three (3) layers of the Dacron tape over all rivets and sharp edges, like the gussets and tube ends.

If you would like a more finished look after covering, try using Super Fil two part epoxy to fill the ends of the tubes. (Available at Aircraft Spruce and other aircraft part suppliers.) Using a standard file, sculpt and smooth the tube ends to conform with the tube contour. When using this method, taping the tube ends is not used.

When getting ready to apply your glue to your tail feathers, it is best to use an inexpensive masking tape to create a "straight" glue edge. Mask for about a 1/2" glue strip along the outside aluminum tubing and about a 1/8" strip along the center cross tubing.

There are two primary types of gluing systems, Poly Fiber's and AFS.

Our builder will be using the AFS bonding system, using CecoBond Cement and an AFS Heavy Duty Cleaner.

Using a small paint brush to apply your glue, apply two coats of your glue to the masked areas of the tail feathers, allowing each coat to dry between applications. When done and the glue is completely dry, remove the masking tape slowly by folding the tape back onto itself and pull in a slight outward direction from the glue. This will help to keep the glue from lifting off the aluminum tubing and give you a clean glue line. This is done prior to placing the fabric sock onto the tail feather frame.

This is perhaps the most difficult part of the covering process if you want a clean, professional look when finished. What we will be describing is how to keep the sewn seam aligned with the outside center of the tubing while gluing and shrinking the fabric.

After your glue on the outside edge and center cross brace tubes have dried thoroughly, slip the appropriate material sock onto the tail section.

While working with the sock in preparation for gluing it to the aluminum frame, you may want to use hand spring clamps to keep the sewn seam centered on the outside edge.

You will now have to cut the sock at the two corners to create flaps at the top and bottom of the sock. "WARNING", do not cut the sock right up to the aluminum tubing. You want to stop cutting about 1/4" from the tubing. Lightly pull the bottom flap up and around the tube and rub it down into the glue with your hand. At this point, it can be pulled off and repositioned as needed.

Once it is fitted around the tube, you can do any additional cutting and repositioning to obtain a good fit. Now take a hot iron and 'set' the glue joint with just a small line down the front of the tube. You can take a pencil and mark a cut line on the excess fabric on the inside of the tube. The excess fabric can now be gently pulled up and cut with the scissors. When fitted and the excess cut away, you should have a fabric wrap of about 270 deg around the tube.

Using your hand, rub the fabric down onto the glued tube working out any wrinkles and securing a good bond. At this point, the fabric can still be pulled away from the structure and repositioned if needed.

Using a hot iron set at about 225-275 deg F., iron the fabric down into the glue bed by using heat and pressure. The heat from the iron softens the bed layer of glue allowing the pressure to push the fabric weave down into the glue. You should see a slight darkening of the fabric where you have heat bonded the fabric to the glue.

Working in strips of about 6" to 10", reapply glue over the glue bond area and rub it down into the fabric with a Blue Scott Towel (white paper towels leave too much lint behind). Be sure to wipe away any excess glue left on the surface of the fabric. Allow to dry.

Again, mask off the top and bottom glue line for securing the top flap. Apply a bed of glue and remove the masking tapes. After the glue has dried, pull the top flap down over the tube and rub the fabric down into the dried glue. Using the hot iron, secure the fabric down with a line down the front of the tube. Using a pencil, mark the line to cut off the excess fabric and cut it off. Lay the fabric back down into the glue bed and rub it down good with your hand. Once it is located where you want it, again use a hot iron and pressure to force it down into the glue bed.

After it is ironed down, working in short strips, apply glue on top as before and rub it down into the fabric using the Scott Towels. Be sure to remove all glue from the surface of the fabric with the Towels.

Start with a household iron set at about 225°F to 250°F or 107°C to 121°C. Most builders will use either a $10.00 cooking thermometer or the far more accurate $70.00 Raytek Minitemp MT4 laser, infrared thermometer, available at www.infrared-usa.com.

You will have some creases along the seam's edge and will need to iron these out at 350°F. Once you have completed the lower temp. shrink, you can reset your iron to about 325°F to 350°F for the final shrink. Again, keep alternating from side to side as you shrink to keep the sewn seam in the center of the outside tube. Once this is finished, use MEK to activate the glue on the aluminum tube and secure the fabric to the tube along the sewn seam and center cross tube.

Before applying the glue edge tape, be sure to completely clean all aluminum parts to be glued with MEK.

See MEK Warning Information before using.

As the method of covering your tail feathers are the same for both methods, no additional photographs are needed. The only difference in the Poly Fiber method is setting the fabric into the Poly Tak glue.

CAUTION: You want to do this "JUST ONCE", so you need to get the glue up into the fabric the first time. If you do not, reapplying MEK will only serve to separate the fabric from the aluminum tubing. If this happens, you will need to remove the fabric, clean off all glue residue from the aluminum tubing and reapply two coats of Poly Tak and start over.

Once you have finished seating the fabric to the aluminum tubing and removed any access fabric, you are ready to mask off the glue area for the top flap. When applying the glue edge masking tape, be sure not to set the tape beyond the area on the covered tubing where the fabric leaves the tube or your fabric will be pulled down at this point. This will be noticeable when shrinking the fabric later. You can now apply the two coats of Poly Tak and when dry, remove the masking tape.

That's it, you finished one section of your tail section. Repeate the above processes for the remaining elevator, rudder and stabilizers.